The Check-In: Tonnara di Scopello
Postcard-worthy holiday apartments in Sicily overlooking the sea.
Nestled beside a picturesque private bay on the Sicilian coast, you’ll find an otherworldly hotel right out of your Pinterest dreams. There are some places that get built up so much they could never live up to hype — this is not one of them. It is every bit as dreamy as the pictures and videos I’d been saving. And then some.
About an hour’s drive from Palermo, down an unassuming winding country road, you’ll come across the hilltop entrance to the property. Seeing a bird’s eye view of the former fishing village took my breath away, and setting foot on its cobblestone streets can only be described as magic.
Give it to me in a logline.
Historic fishing village turned magical boutique stay set in a breathtaking private Sicilian bay.
How did we get here?
We decided to piggyback on my husband’s December work trip a couple years ago and travel to Europe with our then 4-year old son. Our almost month-long trip included stops in England, Denmark, Switzerland and Italy. This was by far the most relaxing part of our trip.
Let’s talk design, shall we?
First and foremost, Tonnara di Scopello is a former tuna fishing village and cannery. Having changed hands through the years, the village buildings that make up the “hotel” each have their own history and unique design. As a whole the property looks very much like a village with a central courtyard and even a small church.
Although its run very much like a hotel, Tonnara is actually a group of 15 holiday apartments.
First, there’s the Sotto la Torre located under the medieval tower. These feature stone interiors; some have sections that are even carved right into the rock.
Then there’s the Palazzina Florio apartments, which served as the headquarters for a noble family. These are done in an Art Nouveau style with beautiful tilework and antique furnishings.
Finally, we have the Vicarie, which are located outside the walled estate. These housed the fishermen and are more rustic and nautical.
Rooms & Suites
The apartments are charming and character-filled, but probably more simple than some of my readers are used to. As someone with diagnosed OCD who has a tough time staying in places that don’t feel clean enough, I was nervous going in. While the apartments are far from “luxury,” they’re very well-maintained and actually exceeded my expectations.
We stayed in the Igiea apartment, which is in the Palazzina Florio and one that I would wholeheartedly recommend. We were on the second floor and had three balconies — one facing the sea stacks (large rock formations) and two (one from the bedroom, one from the kitchen) facing the Vicarie — leading to incredible views all around.
The apartment was spacious and had a living area with twin bed, dining table, small kitchen and spacious bedroom. The bathroom was small, but well-stocked with hotel toiletries.
The Art Nouveau bed frame was so unique and truly beautiful, but I will say that they could stand to upgrade the mattress and bedding to include some fluffier comforters. Not a deal breaker for me, but also by no means luxury by traditional hotel standards.
Amenities
The biggest amenity of staying at Tonnara is access to its secluded private beach. I believe they also allow a certain number of visitors to use the beach for a small fee, but there is always a section behind a gate that is designated for overnight guests. I’ve read that they have a cafe serving drinks and small bites in the summer, but this was not available when we went in December. There are beach chairs for guests, breakfast and parking, but other than that it’s more of a self-serve kind of place.
What about the food?
While there are no restaurants on property (except a cafe in the summer), they do provide you with a delightful European breakfast of meats, cheeses, yogurt, various baked goods, made to order coffee, etc. Besides that though, you’re on your own for meals. We knew this going in and took the opportunity to enjoy some home cooked Italian meals overlooking the sea. I believe they can help make arrangements if you wanted to have someone cook for you.
Standouts
The private bay with crystal clear water.
The mesmerizing views of the stacks.
The history, charm and character.
Things to Note
Tonnara di Scopello is notoriously hard to book if you’re looking to go in the summer. They typically announce when they open up bookings on Instagram (usually in early February) and the apartments book up — FAST. That being said, if you want to go in the off-season, you likely won’t have much trouble making a reservation.
We paid a fraction of the summer rates by going in December. Winter may not be the ideal time for everyone to visit, but for us (especially traveling with a young kid) having the run of the place was amazing.
While it may not be a real “luxury” experience, Tonnara di Scopello is one of those rare, truly special places on earth. If you want to be transported — to experience that real Italian “dolce far niete” (sweetness of doing nothing) — there’s really no place like it.
Dare I say, it’s magic?
Looks like a great place to relax!❤️