The Check-In: Pensão Agrícola
This rural boutique hotel in the Eastern Algarve has just six suites and the cutest resident donkeys.
Something I adore about travel is discovering those new-to-me hotel gems that have the ability to instantly transport. This rural inn, tucked away between the charming historic town of Tavira and picturesque village of Cacela Velha is one of those places. Although I was immediately drawn in by the photos, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of peace you get stepping onto a property like this for the first time.
Give it to me in a logline?
A small rural boutique inn that feels like you’re staying with your stylish friends in their well-curated Portuguese country house.
How did we get here?
Located in the Eastern Algarve, this small inn was another one of the stops my husband and I made on a road trip through Portugal that we took (pre-kiddo) back in 2017. As a refresher, we stayed in 7 places over the course of our road trip and I ended up LOVING three of them. I shared the first, a luxury farm estate in Portugal’s Alentejo wine region, here.
Let’s talk design, shall we?
Part of what makes Pensão Agrícola so special is the delicate balance it strikes between old and new. The property was reimagined by architectural design studio Atelier Rua, who managed to keep the original character of the 1920’s farmhouse while adding more contemporary details, like whitewashed walls throughout the grounds creating maze-like zones for different types of relaxation. The interiors are cozy and collected, featuring rustic antique furniture and hand-selected vintage pieces alongside modern touches like concrete flooring and playful neon signs.
Rooms & Suites
There are six rooms at Pensão Agrícola, half of which are located in the original farmhouse. While they share a minimal/cozy/artsy/collected aesthetic, the beauty lies in the fact that no two rooms are alike. We stayed in Suite Chaminé (in the main house) which is down the most aesthetically pleasing green and white tiled hallway off the dining room. I absolutely adored our room, but we didn’t have our own private patio, so if you’re looking for that you may want to choose another suite.
Amenities
As with many stays in Europe, breakfast (it’s wonderful) is included, but this isn’t an amenity-heavy place in the traditional sense. Yes, there’s a pool, but it’s very small (more like a plunge pool) and pretty much just for cooling off. In my opinion, the best part of a stay at Pensão Agrícola is the feeling of time slowing down. Make yourself a drink at the honor bar, grab your favorite book and enjoy under one of the towering olive trees. Or go say hi to the resident donkey(s) (I’m not sure how many they have at the moment). You can also pre-arrange things like massages, picnics and travel by Tuk-Tuk to the beach.
What about the food?
While there’s no restaurant on site, they do have several dining options available. Breakfast was lovely and is served on the shaded patio overlooking the countryside. You also have the option to pre-book dinner at the hotel, which I wholeheartedly recommend. I got the impression it’s normally on the patio as well, but since it was raining, they created various table settings around the farmhouse for the individual groups (at the dining table, small table for two tucked away in the corner, a couple in front of the fireplace, etc). I truly don’t remember what we ate, but enjoying our intimate meal by candlelight, punctuated by the sound of the crackling fire, is one of those pinch me travel moments I won’t soon forget.
Standouts
The incredible vintage decor
Relaxed atmosphere (adults-only)
Donkeys
Something to bear in mind is that this is a small rural inn, so if you adore luxury hotels where things flow like clockwork, this may not be the place for you. But if you’re like me and appreciate a well-designed stay that’s full of character and charm, Pensão Agrícola is truly something special.
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